Tiny St. Andrews has a huge reputation, known around the world as the birthplace and royal seat of golf. The chance to play on the world鈥檚 oldest course 鈥� or at least take in the iconic view of its 18th hole 鈥� keeps the town perennially popular among golfing pilgrims. But聽any visitor to Scotland should consider at least a short stop in this scenic, intriguingly historic university town.
Located about a one-and-a-half-hour drive north of Edinburgh, and dramatically crowning the cliffs at the tip of a peninsula jutting into the North Sea, St.聽Andrews has been a tourist destination for centuries 鈥� in part because of its important role in Scottish history.
During the religious turbulence between the Great Schism and the Reformation, St. Andrews was the ecclesiastical capital of Scotland, and its cathedral was its showpiece church. The relics of its namesake saint first put the town on the medieval map, drawing pilgrims from around Europe 鈥� until it was ransacked by Protestants and its stones repurposed for newer buildings in town.
Just a few blocks away from the cathedral ruins is St. Andrews Castle, which had also been largely destroyed during the Reformation. What little is left makes a fun visit for its dungeons and tunnels.
In addition to its ruined cathedral and castle, St.聽Andrews retains its original medieval, compact street plan, with just four main streets that all lead to the cathedral, connected mostly by narrow, twisting lanes called 鈥渨ynds.鈥� (The street sign for one of them, Butts Wynd, often goes missing for some reason.)
But golf is the main draw of the town. For any serious golfer, a visit to St. Andrews means the chance to play a round where the sport was supposedly invented: the Old Course. Since the grassy beachfront strip just outside St. Andrews couldn鈥檛 support crops, it was used for playing the game 鈥� and centuries later it still is. The first record of golf being played here was in 1553 (but nobody knows exactly when and where people first hit a ball with a stick for fun).
While golf鈥檚 origins might be a little ambiguous, there鈥檚 no doubt that the town turned it into the sport we know today. Why do golf courses have 18 holes? Because that鈥檚 how many fit at the Old Course.
Except for when it鈥檚 hosting the British Open, the Old Course is open to the public. But playing a round here is pricey and requires major planning: Reserve at least a year in advance, or try your luck in the daily lottery. The St.聽Andrews Links include six other courses that are much easier (and cheaper) to play.
Non-golfers (like me) can still brag that they鈥檝e golfed at St.聽Andrews by playing a round at the Old Course鈥檚 fun putting course 鈥� nicknamed 鈥淭he Himalayas鈥� for its dramatically hilly terrain. While the building housing the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, still golf鈥檚 rulemaking body, is off-limits to non-members, anyone can take in the history of the sport at the nearby British Golf Museum, with a compact exhibit that reverently explains the game鈥檚 origins and changes over time.
Just below the Old Course is a broad, three-kilometre-long beach called the West Sands, offering great views of the town 鈥� and the chance to reenact the opening scene of Chariots of Fire, filmed on this stretch of sand.
The town is also the home of Scotland鈥檚 most important university: Founded in 1413, the University of St. Andrews is the third-oldest in the English-speaking world 鈥� only Oxford and Cambridge have been around longer.
The quad of St. Salvator鈥檚 College, known to students as Sally鈥檚 Quad, is the university鈥檚 heart.
As most university classrooms, offices and libraries are spread out across town, during the school term, shops and pubs brim with student energy.
The university鈥檚 most famous recent graduate is Prince William (class of 鈥�05). Soon after he enrolled here, the number of female applicants to study art history 鈥� his major 鈥� skyrocketed. When he married Kate Middleton, a fellow St. Andrews alum, 10聽years later, nearly the entire student body was there to celebrate on Sally鈥檚 Quad.
St. Andrews is well-connected by train and bus to Edinburgh, making it an easy day trip from Scotland鈥檚 capital. The town also makes a handy home base for a variety of fun side trips to some less-touristed spots nearby: interesting museums in the city of Dundee; Glamis Castle, the childhood home of the late Queen Mother; and a string of relaxing fishing villages along a stretch of nearby coast called the East Neuk.
No matter what brings you to St. Andrews, you鈥檒l be welcomed with a cool sea breeze, a vibrant student culture and the rich history of this wee town.
Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on Facebook.
