OAK BAY BISTRO
Address: 2250 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria
Tel: 250-598-1441
Hours: Open daily
Major credit cards and Interac accepted. Wheelchair accessible.
Five stars, out of five
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I have mixed feelings about the evolution of Oak Bay Avenue. I recall meals at the Golden Galleon, the cat lady and the tiny but atmospheric movie theatre. It was genteel, a safe spot, and I truly was privileged to live there as a child. Yet to use the decades-old expression that life on the other side of Foul Bay Road takes place "behind a tweed curtain" today is to ignore the reality that time leaves little unscathed. But what I missed more than anything upon my return 20 years ago was the high street atmosphere.
The arrival of a pub some years ago provided something to anchor the village again. Time marches on, though, and in the past year not only did the hardware store close, but after decades of tea and scones served under the gaze of golliwogs and frightening Toby jugs, the Blethering Place packed it in.
Several hundred thousand dollars later, what did emerge is the Oak Bay Bistro. I stopped by recently with friends, intending to meet up with a couple more. Fortunately Adam, Emma and I slid into a booth that would eventually seat five comfortably, because though it was virtually empty when we arrived just before 6, it was packed shortly afterward.
Since one friend would be there for a quick drink and a snack, we focused on the Groaning Board, an ample list of charcuterie, cheeses and more. Lizz arrived and this fit her schedule perfectly. Our server returned with a cutting board laden with generous slices of Genoa salami, assorted cheeses - Morbier, Beddis Blue, Le Cendrillon and Manchego - and briny black tapenade, providing a brief description of each item. Accompaniments included crostini, mixed greens, grapes, pickled beets, marinated artichokes and housemade relishes. It was a veritable feast for $25. If I lived or worked nearby it would be on my list of things to do with a glass of wine a couple of times a week - individual selections from this list are a mere $5 each.
With additional crostini this stretched to feed our friend Marnie when she arrived, but she missed out on our other choice of gravlax - succulent discs of herb-infused, salt-cured sockeye crowned with shaved fennel, watercress, lemon verbena and basil and a steal at $7.
This brings me to an important point. Some have suggested prices here are not fitting of a bistro. Rubbish! Chef John Waller has produced a refreshingly unique menu - I challenge anyone to show me a restaurant that will provide appetizers for five people for $32.
Having received our message after starting dinner at home, Marnie continued with a fris脙漏e and apple salad, while the rest of us chose entr脙漏es. There are clearly no taken shortcuts with the beef Bourguignon, a rustic m脙漏lange of beef, caramelized cippolini onions, mushrooms and carrots in an earthy red wine sauce, served with pommes pur脙漏e. Adam's choice was made with some hesitation, since as he noted pasta in a restaurant that doesn't specialize in it is often disappointing. Not here.
Spaghetti bathed in a light basil pomodoro sauce was swirled into bundles, each topped with grilled prawns bathed in pesto. My choice of crispy salt-and-pepper chicken breast garnished with shaved white truffle, served with mushroom ragout and mustard spaetzle dotted with vivid green pceas was proof that chicken in a restaurant can be a revelation. Ingredients matched the skills of those who prepared our dinner. The price? Less than $24.
Eating dessert wasn't physically possible, though the idea of apple galette or a lemon tart paired with a mixed berry fool was tempting. Indeed, if you have a sweet tooth and you mourn the loss of the bistro's predecessor, take note that like everything else here, including condiments, baked goods are prepared onsite. Stop in for coffee and a cranberry pecan sticky bun or fresh muffin in the morning. Breakfast is served every day until midafternoon when the groaning board takes over as the kitchen replenishes things for dinner service at 5, so if you want a fry-up or eggs Benedict at noon, you're in luck. Daily soup and sandwich specials, frittatas, salads and burgers paired with sinfully good hand-cut fries round things out in the daytime from 11 a.m.
Food is exactly what you would expect from a team led by the former executive chef of the Wickaninnish Inn and service is informed, friendly and thoughtful.
There are some minor problems, not entirely unexpected in a new operation, especially one as busy as this. However, after two months, things like menu typos, wait times at lunch and endlessly ringing phones should have been addressed by the owners, who have experience in this industry. Hire more people for the front if you need to - don't let the work from the back of house suffer to save a few bucks.
RATINGS
Below bad 1
Below average 2
Average 3
Above average 4
Excellent 5
