TORONTO 鈥� The Yukon Gold potato might have come from humble roots, but the 91原创-bred spud has achieved global status among chefs and food writers.
It seems Gary Johnston, the plant scientist who bred the yellow-fleshed potato 50 years ago, was ahead of his time.
He鈥檚 hailed as an 鈥渁gricultural hero,鈥� best known for the cross-breeding of a bright yellow wild potato from Peru with a domestic variety. That produced the Yukon Gold, which is praised for its versatility and flavour.
Altogether Johnston developed and brought 16 potato varieties to market. At one time, the top four varieties of potato were his, says the University of Guelph, where he was based with Agriculture Canada for close to 30 years.
Johnston named his iconic potato after the Yukon River, with its link to the Klondike Gold Rush. Yukon Gold was the first 91原创-bred potato variety to be promoted, packaged and marketed under its own name. But because the potato鈥檚 release to market came a few years before breeder鈥檚 rights legislation was implemented, no royalties were received.
Vanessa Currie considers herself lucky to have worked with Johnston for a few years in the early 1990s, when he was called out of retirement to fill in while the university sought a new potato breeder. The research technician thinks Johnston鈥檚 Yukon Gold achievement was the culmination of several factors.
For one thing, he bred the variety with European immigrants in mind. 鈥淭hat was sort of unheard of in those days. The idea was that if they came here then they would have to eat what we grew here, and he opened the door for plant breeders to develop things to cater to new 91原创s and broaden the palate of the 91原创 plate. Try something new. Yeah, it鈥檚 yellow,鈥� says Currie.
鈥淣ow a generation has grown up eating the yellow-fleshed potato being something normal and yummy and great.鈥�
Many 91原创 war veterans brought home a taste for new foods sampled while fighting abroad. 鈥淚t was also the start of the idea that the potato wasn鈥檛 just sustenance, that it could be a delicacy,鈥� said Currie.
Alex York von Sivers, whose father Hans von Sivers was Johnston鈥檚 lab technician for two decades, has taken on the task of spreading the word about the Yukon Gold鈥檚 big anniversary. Over the last three years he鈥檚 gathered material about the potato and sought out congratulatory letters for the half-century milestone from the likes of Prince Charles, TV cook Rachael Ray, 91原创 songbird Anne Murray and astronaut Chris Hadfield.
鈥淢y objective is to pay tribute to a brilliant potato scientist, celebrate the 50th anniversary of his extraordinary creation and then what can I do to make this a lasting legacy 鈥� because what Gary did was a wonderful example of patient, persistent research, patient, persistent out-of-the-box thinking,鈥� the Toronto-based York says.
At the recent state dinner in Washington attended by Prime Minister Justin Trudeau, White House chef Cristeta Pasia Comerford dished up Yukon Gold potato dauphinoise drizzled with Yukon Jack 91原创 whisky.
Former White House chef John Moeller, who cooked for the families of three presidential administrations from 1992 to 2005, loves the Yukon Gold鈥檚 versatility.
He likes it in gratin-type dishes and purees. 鈥淚 like the colour, the esthetic colour to it. I like the creaminess to it.鈥� he says from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, where he runs State of Affairs Catering.
Celeb chef Wolfgang Puck served 1,500 Yukon Gold potatoes at this year鈥檚 Oscars Governors Ball. Baked in gold foil, they were topped with caviar and cr猫me fra卯che.
The Yukon Gold potato鈥檚 waxy, moist, yellow-tinged flesh is prized by chefs and home cooks for its flavour and versatility 鈥� ideal for boiling, baking and frying as well as grilling, pan frying and roasting. It retains its yellow colour when cooked.
Here are some recipes to try using the potato, which was developed 50 years ago in Guelph, Ont:
Grilled Potato and Asparagus Salad
Fresh lemon zips up the flavour in this salad. Serve it for brunch or lunch or with grilled salmon for dinner.
Makes: Four servings
4 Yukon Gold potatoes (about 1 lb)
鈥� Half bunch asparagus, trimmed
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp each salt and pepper
1 red pepper, chopped
1/2 tsp grated lemon rind
2 Tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint or parsley (optional)
Slice potatoes into 1/2-inch thick slices and place in a large bowl. Add asparagus and drizzle with 2 Tbsp of the oil. Add half the garlic and half each of the salt and pepper. Toss well to coat potatoes and asparagus.
Place potato slices and asparagus on a greased grill over medium-high heat, close lid and grill, turning once, for about 10 minutes for the asparagus and 15 minutes for the potatoes or until golden and crisp. Arrange on a platter.
In a small bowl, whisk together remaining oil and garlic, lemon rind and juice and mustard.
Drizzle over grilled vegetables and sprinkle with mint, if using.
Perfect Scalloped Potatoes
Easy and impressive, these creamy scalloped potatoes created with the buttery Yukon Gold variety by sisters Julie Albert and Lisa Gnat are sure to be a hit with guests and family alike.
They鈥檝e done away with the traditional heavy cream 鈥� substituting milk 鈥� and layer the potatoes with an onion-herb mixture, a creamy combination of white cheddar and Parmesan cheese, and finish it with a crunchy crumb topping.
You can assemble the scalloped potatoes up to six hours ahead. Refrigerate covered with foil and allow to come to room temperature before baking.
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes
Makes: Eight servings
3 lb Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise (about 6 large)
1 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup grated white cheddar or Gruyere cheese
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3/4 tsp kosher salt
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
1 tsp chopped fresh rosemary
Bechamel
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup flour
1 tsp dried mustard powder
1/2 tsp kosher salt
鈥� Pinch cayenne pepper
3 cups whole milk, warmed
Topping
1/2 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
1/2 cup grated white cheddar or Gruyere cheese
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbsp melted butter
Preheat oven to 400 F. Coat a 9-inch square baking dish with non-stick cooking spray.
In a large bowl, toss sliced potatoes with olive oil, white cheddar, Parmesan cheese and salt. Set aside. In a small bowl, toss onion, thyme and rosemary. Set aside.
Bechamel: In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add flour, mustard powder, salt and cayenne. Stir continuously for 30 seconds. Gradually whisk in milk and continue to whisk until sauce thickens, four to five minutes. Remove from heat.
Topping: In a small bowl, toss together panko, cheddar, Parmesan and butter.
To assemble: Pour one cup bechamel over bottom of baking dish. Arrange one-third of the sliced potato mixture in a pattern on top. Sprinkle with half the onion mixture and top evenly with one cup bechamel. Layer one-third of the potato slices, remaining half of the onions, followed by remaining potato slices. Pour last one cup of bechamel and evenly scatter topping over potatoes. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 50 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 F, uncover and continue to bake for 30 minutes, or until potatoes are fork tender and top is beginning to turn golden.
Source: Lick Your Plate: A Lip Smackin鈥� Book for Every Home Cook, by Julie Albert and Lisa Gnat (Pinky Swear Press, 2016. Reprinted by permission of Appetite by Random House).
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