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Eric Akis: Joy of the herb garden

Years ago, a professional landscaper friend of mine dug up and gave my wife and me some of the oregano he was growing. He didn鈥檛 mind sharing because his oregano was flourishing, filling up a large spot in his garden.
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These tasty crostinis feature grilled bread topped with goat cheese and a tasty tomato and oregano mixture.

Eric AkisYears ago, a professional landscaper friend of mine dug up and gave my wife and me some of the oregano he was growing. He didn鈥檛 mind sharing because his oregano was flourishing, filling up a large spot in his garden.

A mint family member, oregano is听native to the Mediterranean region and is closely related to marjoram. In听fact, it鈥檚 sometimes referred to as wild marjoram and in reference books oregano and marjoram are often listed together, with oregano touted as being more robust.

Oregano is also a perennial herb and when we planted ours, in a full sunlight location, it flourished. Each year, that oregano sprouts fresh new leaves that I love to use in a wide range of dishes.

More on that in minute, but let me first tell you the type of oregano we have is called Greek oregano, sometimes called true oregano. It鈥檚 a popular and hardy variety and the type you鈥檒l likely see for sale for culinary use in supermarkets, sold fresh and听ready to use in small plastic boxes.

According to a few sources, the听derivation of the word oregano is听from ancient Greek and means 鈥渏oy听of听the mountain.鈥 That makes sense because oregano grows on slopes of Greek mountains and is a听joy听to breathe in. The herb is highly aromatic and has a听slightly bitter taste, with hints of pine and spices, such as clove and pepper.

I鈥檒l add fresh oregano leaves, whole or chopped, to pasta and tomato salads and sprinkle it on grilled vegetables. I鈥檒l also use oregano in marinades for fish, lamb chops and kebabs, and swirl it into pizza and tomato sauce and soups. In today鈥檚 recipes, I also used oregano on crostini, with grilled chicken and in pesto.

If you don鈥檛 grow your own, you can, of course, use store-bought, fresh oregano.

If you have grown your own, though, and are not sure how or when to harvest it, the many herb books I have note that oregano is at it fullest flavour just as flower buds form. Wait until morning, after the dew has dried off its leaves before harvesting. To do so, use scissors to remove leaf-filled stems from the plant, cutting just above a set of leaves. Harvesting that way will encourage the plant to branch out from where you cut it and produce more oregano.

RECIPES

Grilled Crostini with Goat Cheese, Tomato and Oregano

Spreading grilled bread with tangy cheese and a summery topping of tomatoes and fresh oregano are how these appetizing bites are made.

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: About one to two minutes

Makes: 12 crostini

For the crostini

12 (1/4鈥 thick) slices of baguette, cut at a slight angle (see Note)

鈥 extra virgin olive oil for brushing

100 grams soft goat cheese

For the topping

18 small cherry tomatoes, each quartered

2 Tbsp loosely packed small, whole oregano leaves

1/2 tsp minced garlic

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 tsp balsamic vinegar

鈥 salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat your grill to medium-high. Brush the baguette slices lightly with olive oil. Grill the slices 30 to 60 seconds on each side, or until nice grill marks appear.

Top and spread one side of each bread slice with goat cheese and set the crostini on a platter.

Combine topping ingredients in a bowl. Spoon some of the topping on each crostini and serve.

Note: The baguette used for this recipe was about six- to seven-centimetres wide. Do not use one much than wider than that or you won鈥檛 get bite-sized crostini.

Grilled Chicken Breast with Charred Peppers, Oregano and Capers

This recipe for two sees lean chicken breast topped with strips of colourful red pepper strewn with fresh oregano and other palate pleasing things.

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: About 20 minutes

Makes: two servings

For the pepper mixture

1 large red bell pepper

2 Tbsp loosely packed small, whole oregano leaves

1 Tbsp capers with some of their juice

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 tsp red wine vinegar

鈥 salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the chicken

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus some for the grill

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/8 tsp. paprika

2 (7 to 8 oz.) boneless, skinless chicken breasts

鈥 salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat your barbecue or indoor grill to medium-high. Set the pepper directly on the grill and cook on all sides until charred, blackened and blistered. Set the pepper on a plate, tent with foil and let sit 20 minutes.

Now, with your fingers, peel the skin off pepper. Cut the pepper in half and remove and discard the seeds. Slice the half peppers into thick strips and place in a bowl. And the peppers remaining ingredients, and then cover and refrigerate until needed. (Peppers can be made few hours before serving.)

When ready to cook and serve the chicken, preheat your barbecue or indoor grill to medium-high again. Take the peppers out of the refrigerator and let warm at room temperature until the chicken is cooked.

In a tiny bowl, combine the 1 Tbsp oil for the chicken with the cumin and paprika. Brush this mixture on the chicken. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Lightly oil the surface of the grill. Grill the chicken three to four minutes per side, or until cooked through.

Plate the chicken, top with the charred pepper mixture and enjoy.

Oregano and Pumpkin Seed Pesto

Aromatic oregano and rich pumpkin seeds combine in this robust pesto. Spoon it on a pizza; blend it with mayonnaise and spread on sandwiches; swirl into tomato pasta sauce or mac and cheese; or it spread on roasted lamb. Pumpkin seeds are sold in the bulk foods section of many supermarkets.

Preparation time: five minutes

Cooking time: None

Makes: About one cup

1 cup packed fresh oregano leaves

1/2 cup raw, unsalted, shelled pumpkin seeds

1/2 cup packed freshly grated Parmesan cheese (not the dried powdered type)

2 large garlic cloves, sliced

1/2 cup plus 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp lemon juice

鈥 salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place oregano, seeds, cheese, garlic, oil and lemon juice in a small food processor or cup that came with your immersion (hand) blender. Blend the ingredients until well combined. Add a little more oil if pesto is too thick. Season the pesto with salt and pepper. Refrigerate the pesto in a tightly sealed jar with a skim of olive oil on top. It will keep about 10 days. Pesto could also be frozen in small tubs or ice cube trays for up to two months.

Eric Akis is the author of eight cookbooks. His latest is The Great Rotisserie Chicken Cookbook (Appetite by Random House). His columns appear in the Life section of the Times 91原创 print edition on Wednesday and Sunday.

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