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Eric Akis: Get past the kiwi’s humble exterior

From the outside, a kiwi, or kiwifruit, is oval, brown, a little fuzzy and not that interesting.
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The kiwifruit may look plain and unappealing on the outside, but the inside is a different story. These easy lemon tarts topped with a slice of kiwi showcase the fruit's vibrant, gem-like flesh.

akis.jpgFrom the outside, a kiwi, or kiwifruit, is oval, brown, a little fuzzy and not that interesting. But that changes in an instant when you slice it and reveal its almost gem-like centre, surrounded by tiny black seeds and a ring of flesh that’s the most vibrant green or yellow-gold or other colour depending on the variety.

Those qualities, plus its refreshing, sweet-and-sour flavour, which has hints of strawberry, melon and banana, make kiwi an ingredient that can add life to a variety of dishes. In today’s recipes, they include a nutritious smoothie, a light and delicious salad and lemon tarts topped with slices of the fruit.

Kiwi originated from China and is also known as a Chinese gooseberry. The fruit is cultivated in many locations around the world, including New Zealand, Italy, Chile, California and 91Ô­´´ Island.

In supermarkets, the fruit is available year-round because it is grown and exported from both the southern and northern hemispheres, where the growing seasons are opposite. For farms and markets selling locally grown kiwi, visit the Southern 91Ô­´´ Island Direct Farm Marketing Association website islandfarmfresh.com, click on products and then on kiwi. Call the location you want to visit just to make sure they have fruit available.

Like bananas and pears, kiwi are often picked when underripe. Once off the vine, the starch in the fruit slowly converts to sugar and its flesh ripens, softens and sweetens. If you’ve bought quite firm kiwi, let them sit out at room temperature a few days until the flesh softens and the skin indents slightly when touched.

If you need to speed up the ripening process, place the kiwi in a paper bag with an apple, whose natural ethylene gas will get things moving more quickly. Once ripened, eat the kiwi at once or refrigerate a few days.

Kiwi contains more vitamin C than the equivalent amount of orange and more potassium than the equivalent amount of banana. It also contains vitamin E, fibre and other good things.

The skin of a kiwi is edible but its texture is not appealing, which is why most people peel the fruit before eating. If you have ever peeled a thin-skinned kiwi with a paring knife you know you have to do so very carefully to ensure you don’t lose a lot of the flesh. You can also lose some of the kiwi’s appealing curved shape, something that would be of concern if you want perfect slices of kiwi for a recipe, such as today’s tarts. The step-by-step information and photos below will guide you on how to use a teaspoon to more cleanly peel a kiwi.

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Kiwi Lemon Tarts

These easy-to-make tarts see a rich, sweet and tangy lemon filling get topped with vibrant-green slices of kiwi.

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Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

Makes: 12 tarts

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12 (3-inch) frozen tart shells, thawed

4 large egg yolks

1 large egg

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 tsp finely grated lemon zest

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

2 Tbsp melted butter

12 (about 1/4 inch thick) slices of kiwi

• icing sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 F. Set the tart shells on a baking sheet.

Place the egg yolks, egg, sugar, lemon zest and juice, and melted butter in a bowl and whisk to combine. Transfer the mixture to a spouted vessel, such as two-cup measuring cup. Now carefully divide and pour filling into the tart shells.

Bake the tarts in the centre of the oven 25 minutes. Cool tarts on a baking rack, and then refrigerate until ready to serve. (Tarts can be made to this point several hours before needed.)

When ready to serve, remove the foil liner from each tart and set on a serving tray. Top each tart with a slice of kiwi, dust with icing sugar and serve.

Note: Frozen tart shells are sold in the frozen foods section of most supermarkets.

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Kiwi, Cucumber and Pear Smoothies

Nutritious and refreshing smoothies tinted green.

Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: None
Makes: two to three (about
1 to 1 1/2 cups each) servings

2 medium kiwi, peeled and cubed
1 cup cubed English cucumber
(about 1/4 to 1/3 of cucumber,
depending on size)
1 medium ripe pear, peeled, cored
and sliced
1/2 cup orange or apple juice
150 grams soft or silken tofu,
or 1/2 cup plain yogurt
1 Tbsp lime juice
1 Tbsp honey, or to taste Ìý
1 tsp chopped fresh ginger
2 to 3 ice cubes
• peeled kiwi slices for garnish (optional)
Place all ingredients in a blender and purée. Pour into glasses and serve, garnished with a slice of kiwi, if desired.
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Balsamic Mixed Baby Greens with Kiwi, Cranberries and Goat Cheese

This colourful and flavourful salad would make a nice first course or light lunch.

Preparation time: 20 minutesÌýÌý Ìý
Cooking time: NoneÌý Ìý
Makes: Four servings Ìý

3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
2 tsp honey
1 tsp Dijon mustard
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 cups baby salad greens
2 large kiwi, peeled and cut into half moon slices
100 to 125 grams soft goat cheese, pulled into small nuggets
1/3 cup dried cranberries
1/3 cup walnut pieces
Combine the first five ingredients in a large bowl. Add the salad greens and toss to combine. Divide and mound the greens on four plates. Divide and top each salad with kiwi, goat cheese, cranberries and walnuts pieces and serve immediately.

Note: If you would like to learn many other ways to prepare this fruit, such as kiwi jam, pick up a copy of the Kiwifruit Collection Cookbook. It’s well illustrated, costs just $5 and it, and the fruit you’ll need to make the recipes, are available at Bailiwick Farm, 1765 McTavish Rd., North Saanich.
Call 250-656-7808 for more information.

Eric Akis is the author of the hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.