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Tomato lovers wait for this all year — that moment when the plants in the garden are struggling under the weight of those gorgeous red (or yellow or orange or even green) orbs, and the tables at the farmers markets threaten to buckle under the load. We slice and eat them as fast as we can, but we still can’t keep up. Nor can we ever get enough.

This is when fresh tomato sauce comes into play, turning a basketful of ripe tomatoes into an easy dinner.

The beauty of this recipe is you can cook the tomatoes for as little or as long as you want, and you’ll still have a lovely, clean sauce. IÌýlike to take out about half of the sauce after 10 minutes, preserving the sweet-acidic freshness of a barely cooked tomato, then let the rest of the sauce simmer for longer so that it reduces and concentrates, and becomes deeper in flavour.

The two batches are then reunited and whirred together, and the result is a sauce with bothÌýdepth and brightness. Or, if you prefer a chunky, rustic sauce, justÌýskip the blending step altogether.

If you have the opportunity to mix different varieties of tomatoes you’ll get a blend of different notes of sweetness and acidity.

The tiny bit of sugar bumps upÌýthe natural sweetness of the tomatoes; it’s a nice touch. However you make it, this is the quintessential summertime pasta meal.

Fresh Tomato Sauce with PastaÌýÌý

Start to finish: 45 minutes

Makes: Four servings

Ìý

4 pounds ripe tomatoes

3 Tbsp olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

5 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 tsp red pepper flakes (optional)

• Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1/2 tsp sugar

1 tsp chopped fresh thyme

6 large fresh basil leaves, chopped or shredded

12 oz dried pasta (any variety)

• Parmesan cheese, to serve

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water and have it nearby.

Use a paring knife to cut an X across the bottom of each tomato. Carefully set the tomatoes into the boiling water, cook for 60Ìýseconds, then use a slotted spoon to transfer them to the iceÌýwater. Cool for one to two minutes.

Place the tomatoes on a cutting board with a groove to catch theÌýjuices, then dump out the ice water, reserving the bowl. Peel offÌýthe tomato skins, then roughly chop the tomatoes, discarding theÌýstem and any white core. Transfer the chopped tomatoes and any juices on the board to the bowl.

Return the large pot to medium heat. Add the oil, onion and garlic and sauté, not allowing the garlic and onions to get more than lightly golden, for about five minutes, or until soft. Stir in the red pepper flakes, if using, and season with salt and pepper. Add the tomatoes and all of their juices, then increase the heat to high. Bring to a rapid simmer, add the sugar, then cook for about 10 minutes, or until the tomatoes start to break down.

Use a slotted spoon to transfer about half of the tomatoes to a bowl. Continue to simmer the rest of the tomato mixture for another 15 minutes until it thickens further and some of the liquid evaporates. Stir the reserved tomato mixture back into the pot along with the thyme and basil. Check and adjust the seasoning.

While the tomato sauce finishes cooking, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions.

For a chunky sauce, you can simply drain the pasta, return it to the pot, and toss with the sauce to combine.

Alternatively, use an immersion blender to purée the sauce asÌýsmooth as you’d like right in itsÌýpot, or carefully transfer it to a food processor or blender and pulse or puree the mixture — inÌýbatches if necessary — until itÌýreaches the desired consistency. Serve with grated Parmesan.